Destinations

İznik

İznik, with its thousand of years cultural heritage, occupied an important place in history. Having been the capital of four empires, it is one of the remarkable settlement places.

History

There are traces of a civilisation dates back to 2500 BC in Karadin, Çiçekli, Yüğücek and Çakırca Mounds near İznik. The settlement before the immigrations of Trak Tribes in the 7th century BC, took the name of Helikare. The word of ‘Khryseapolis’ (Golden City) was printed on the coins having been minted in the city.

Having been renovated by Antigonos, General of Macedonia Emperor Alexander the Great in 316 BC, the city took the name of Antigoneia. After the death of Alexander the Great, the city was handed over to General Lysimakhos who won the battle against Antigonos and named the city as Nicaea, which was also the name of his wife. In 293 BC, it became a part of Bithynia Kingdom. During this period, the city was decorated with important architectural structures. Nicaea, having been the capital city of Bithynia Kingdom for a period, later on continued its presence as an important settlement area of the Romans.

Nicaea got acquainted with Christianity by the efforts of Petrus, one of the disciples of Bithynia. During the reign of Emperor Constantine the 1st, the prohibitions on Christianity were removed. In the early summer of 325 AD, Nicaea was the scene of an important meeting of 1st Consul in Senatus Palace. A text comprising of 20 articles, known as Nicaea Laws, and Christianity Feast Days were approved after this consul.

In 787 AD, 7th Consul gathered in Hagia Sophia Church in İznik. The prohibitions on paintings and statues were removed under the leadership of Empress Irene.

İznik has also been the capital city of the Seljuks and Byzantines through history.

After having been captured by the Ottoman Army in 1331, İznik became a more active city and a centre of art, culture and trade. Many famous people lectured in Orhan Ghazi Madrasah during this period. The first Mosque, Madrasa and İmaret (Soup Kitchen) of Ottoman Period were built in İznik.

İznik became an art centre during the 14th and 15th centuries, and world wide famous tiles and ceramics were produced here. Its city texture, with its grid-planned city settlement from Hellenistic Age and monumental structures from the Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, has still been preserving in İznik.

Climate

İznik has a temperate climate with wet winters. In summers, it is sufficiently rainy.

The Art of Tile Making

The development in the art of ceramic tiling in İznik, can be easily understood from tile coverings on historical structures of which construction dates are known. Having been built between 1378 and 1391, İznik Green Mosque with its oldest Ottoman tiles which decorates its minaret continued the Seljuk tradition in aspects of technique and decor, but the colours and tints are richer than the ones of the Seljuks. The diversity of green and turquoise ceramic tiles of the Mosque attracts attention.

According to the historical records, the ceramic tiles used in the constructions of İstanbul were produced in İznik. The centre of the ceramics known as Milet, Damascus group and Rhodes work is İznik. The great traveller Evliya Çelebi, who visited İznik in 17th century, has mentioned in his book that there were more than 300 tile kilns in İznik. Flower motifs such as tulip, hyacinth, pomegranate and clove were used in İznik Tiles as well as human, animal such as bird, rabbit, dog and ship figures. The most used colours are blue, turquoise, green and red.

Revival Of İznik Tiles After 300 Years

İznik is located on the banks of the lake of the same name in the province of Bursa in the north-western part of Anatolia. In antiquity it lay within the borders of the Bithynian region. One legend says that the town was established on the return of the God Dionysus from India. According to another legend, İznik was colonized by the soldiers who escorted Alexander the Great (356-323 B.C.) during his conquests.

When Antigonas Monophthalmus founded the city in 316 B.C., there was already a settlement of the Bottiaei people here, called Elikore, but Antigonas called the town Antigoneia after himself. After the battle of Ipsus (301 B.C.), one of Alexander’s generals, Lysimachus (360-281 B.C.), took the city and named it after his wife Nikaia, the daughter of the Macedonian leader, Antipatros. Throughout the centuries the name Nikaia went through slight phonetic changes, becoming first Nicea and eventually İznik in Turkish times.

In the course of its history from 316 B.C. to the present-day, İznik presents a picture of a city which has undergone great cultural and architectural changes. In the true sense of the word, İznik is an archaeological and historical art laboratory of the Romans, Byzantines, Seljuk and Ottoman Turks.

Following the recent excavations of İznik kilns on the site, Prof. Aslanapa and Prof. Altun have clearly observed that the Ottoman ceramics in İznik had a Seljuk background. The latest research and analysis have revealed that the white pasted hard ceramic consists of the same material as the soft porcelain used in the Ottoman Period. At first, blue and white were the prevailing colors in the pots and wall tiles in this category. During the 16th century, the turquoise was introduced. The embossed red of the wall tiles of the mihrab of Süleymaniye Mosque (1555) marks the peak of Ottoman tiles and ceramics. During the Ottoman era, the İznik tiles and pottery were exported to other countries via the Island of Rhodes, which was then under Turkish rule.

Evliya Çelebi, the famous Turkish traveller, mentions the existence of 300 workshops in İznik during the 17th century. This number, also justified by the excavations, gives us an idea of the importance of tile production in this town. Various reasons have been put forward with regard to the decline of tile production in İznik. The most widely accepted theory is that the demand from Istanbul for the use of these tiles in major public buildings such as mosques and palaces had fallen during the period of decline of the empire. In the beginning of the 20th century, the population of İznik was composed of Turks as well as small ethnic minorities such as Greek and Armenians involved in farming and silk production.

During the Turkish war of Independence, İznik went through turbulent times. The town was invaded by Greeks in September 1920, and towards the final stages of the war it was burnt to the ground by the defeated invaders and the inhabitants had to flee. With the declaration of the Turkish Republic, İznik became home for an influx of Turkish immigrants from Greece and Thrace.

The Characteristics of İznik Tiles

İznik Tiles are admired worldwide for the following reasons:

• İznik Tiles are made on a very clean white base with hard backs and underglazed decorations in a unique technique.

• 70-80 percent of an İznik tile is composed of quartz and quartzite. Its beauty arises from the harmonious composition of three successive quartz layers and a paste-slip-glaze combination which is extremely difficult to bring together. The mixture of quartz, clay and glaze disperses in a very wide thermic spectrum at 900 centigrade. After painstaking research, the problem of the fluctuating thermal behaviour of the tiles due to their quartz and rock crystal composition is solved. The result is a tile made primarily out of a semi-precious stone: quartz.

• Even though it may appear to be against the principle of “ceramic textural unity”, the porous structure of the tiles causes dilatation or shrinkage in hot, cold or freezing conditions. It is said that this particular aspect of the structure “allows it to breatle”.

• In İznik tiles, one can observe colours resembling those of semi-precious stones such as the dark blue of lapis lazuli, the blue of turquoise, the redness of coral, the green of emerald.

• Some of the colours observed on the tiles and utensils, particularly the coral red, are very hard to obtain and apply. To obtain all of these colours, the cornea white and opaque sheen glazes are required. The slightly opaque quality of the glaze on the tiles absorbs light and reduces strain on the eyes. It not only protects the tile but also help it breathe.

• The figures on the tiles and utensils reflect allegorical and symbolic characteristics and the flora and fauna of the region. The geometrical designs can be interpreted almost cosmologically as a general description or depiction of the world or the Universe. They blend beautifully with the surrounding architectural constructions in which they are found, and are never overpowering or overstated, but always tend towards a timeless discretion and moderation.

• The inscriptions and the writings on the tiles never consist of egocentric or aggressive texts; rather, they present the ideology and philosophy of Islam.

• The Foundation researchers have been using the classical İznik tile designs on the productions, reviving the mystery of the creation of the İznik tile. Throughout the production processes, the main objective is to master the traditional technological methods rather than embrace those of our own day. In order to preserve the authenticity of the İznik tiles, the İznik Foundation utilizes raw materials that are akin to those of the 16th century.

• The production of the İznik tile, which is the complete opposite of the current ceramic technology is fundamentally based on the natural synthesis of its various

İznik Tiles, The Revival

İznik became the centre of worldwide attention once again when the year 1989 was declared the year of İznik. Several activities relating to İznik took place; a symposium, an international exhibition and the publication of two books. Finally, the İznik Foundation was established in September 1993.

İznik Tiles Today

İznik tiles reached their heyday in the 16th century, and the masterpieces produced at that time are regarded as the most valuable specimens of the art of ceramics by the leading museums of the world.

İznik Kiln excavations, carried out for more than 20 years by the Istanbul University Department of Archaeology and History of Art, give us clues as to the types of kilns and ceramics used in the Art of İznik tile making. In the İznik Tiles Atelier opened in mid 1996, following the opening of the İznik Foundatin in 1993 and the Tile and Ceramic Research Centre in 1995, it is now possible to produce tile nearly equalling the quality of those of the 16th century.

Obviously, to reach this point, many experiments were made and everything about İznik tiles was investigated, since the old masters took the secrets to their graves, with the result that even the slightest clue to their manufacture lay concealed for centuries.

The composition of the tiles and the percentage of the components within the microstructure of the material are carefully studied. The availability of these materials and reserves within the region are considered.

Following the excavations, it is observed that İznik tile production was fire high on wastage owing to the large proportion of quartz in the ceramic. Similarly, a number of experiments with the minerals in the area were carried on in the course of which thousands of experimental plates were produced only to be broken and thrown away. The most unfortunate setback the Foundation has had to face has been the absolute lack of documentation regarding the process. Not even the names of the towns and villages where the materials originated were known.

Thus, the conclusion was arrived at that only through the most meticulous scientific research could unified İznik tile concept be formed.

In its efforts, the İznik Foundation has received the support of scientific foundations and NGO’ s such as TÜBİTAK, M.A.M. (Marmara Research Center), İ.T.Ü. (Istanbul Technical University), İ.Ü. (Istanbul University), in Turkey, and Princeton and M.I.T. (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) in the United States in a vast range of analysis.

The production of handmade tiles of the desired quality in this era of speed and automation is a particularly difficult task.

Today, İznik tiles are used as an architectural element in old and modern buildings by the discriminating decorator and art-lover alike.

The Objective of the Foundation:

The İznik Foundation is established with the aim of introducing to the world the cultural and artistic aspects and heritage of İznik and its environs and transferring this heritage to future generations through systematic educational programs. The İznik Foundation is composed of three entities: Vocational Center, Tile-Ceramics Research Centre and the Tile and Ceramics Atelier. It also has a liaison office in Kuruçeşme, Istanbul.

The İznik Foundation is primarily concerned with the revival of the traditional art of under glazing. Presently, the Foundation is not only capable of reproducing 16th century masterpieces, but also of continuing the tradition of the ancient masters in such a way that the end product is equal or better in terms of quality. The support for all the work comes from the aforesaid excavations, and from scientific research conducted by scholars. It can be stated that the first successful examples have been highly appreciated in Turkey as well as abroad.

It is of great importance that İznik tile manufacture is adapted to present-day technology, without spoiling the inherent quality and aesthetic value which have made the 16th century İznik tile renowned in the world of ceramics. To this end, the İznik Foundation is sponsoring excavations and research on the archeology and art history of İznik. One other activity is to scan the inventories in museums and architectural works of old İznik tiles both in Turkey and abroad, and to establish a documentation center. Each year the Foundation prepares calendars with different tile compositions taken from historical buildings and source documents.

A second İznik Tile Exhibition is being planned for 1999, ten years following the first one, along with an exhibition of new examples on the occasion of the celebration of the 700th anniversary of the Ottoman Empire.

So far 70 young graduates, have been issued certificates by the İznik Foundation on a course on tile decoration given free of charge. A summer school is to be opened for students both from Turkish and foreign Universities. The İznik Foundation is also planning a prospective University in İznik with emphasis on archaeology, art history and ceramics.

The Ultimate Goal, İznik University

Orhan Gazi (1326-1362) is known to be the founder of the first “medrese” (theological college) in the Ottoman Empire.

He established “medreses” in İznik, Bursa, Akçaova, Sapanca and İzmit to which the most renowned scholars or “müderris” of the period were appointed. This led to the creation of other education centers in the Ottoman Period.

The conquest of İznik in 1331 was followed by the opening of the first medrese and the mosque in the city. Davudu Kayseri was appointed to the position of “müderris” at the aforementioned institution in 1333. This was followed by the Süleyman Paşa Medresesi, which was built before 1357 and still survives in its original state and by the Hayrettin Paşa Medresesi the portico columns of which can be seen on the north of the Green Mosque in Bursa.

The İznik Foundation aims at restoring the site to its former importance as a cultural centre by the establishment of a university in İznik.

The Ultimate Goal, İznik University

Orhan Gazi (1326-1362) is known to be the founder of the first “medrese” (theological college) in the Ottoman Empire.

He established “medreses” in İznik, Bursa, Akçaova, Sapanca and İzmit to which the most renowned scholars or “müderris” of the period were appointed. This led to the creation of other education centers in the Ottoman Period.

The conquest of İznik in 1331 was followed by the opening of the first medrese and the mosque in the city. Davudu Kayseri was appointed to the position of “müderris” at the aforementioned institution in 1333. This was followed by the Süleyman Paşa Medresesi, which was built before 1357 and still survives in its original state and by the Hayrettin Paşa Medresesi the portico columns of which can be seen on the north of the Green Mosque in Bursa.

The İznik Foundation aims at restoring the site to its former importance as a cultural centre by the establishment of a university in İznik.

Where to Visit

İznik Museum ( Nilüfer Hatun Soup Kitchen)

This structure is one the beautiful examples of 14th century Ottoman Architecture. In 1338, Ottoman Ruler Murat the first built it as an İmaret (soup kitchen) in memory of his mother Nilüfer Hatun. This charity house served meal to poor people every day. In Ottoman Architecture, T-shaped plan was used for the first time during the construction of this house. After having been used as a storehouse in the Republican Era, it was put into operation as a museum in 1960. Archaeological works of art from Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman Periods are on display in the Museum. The works, having been unearthed in İznik Tile Kilns Excavation, draw the attention of many people.

Tumulus, Rock Tombs and Monuments

Berber Rock

Berber Rock, a large room-shaped monumental tomb having been carved in rock, is located at the foot of a hill in the west of İznik. There are graves on the ground. It dates back to the 2nd century, and it is one of the important examples of the Hellenistic Period in İznik.

Beştaş

This monumental tomb, raising among vineyards in the west of the district, is on the road of ancient Rome. The tomb is also called as Obelisk or Nişantaşı. It is understood from the inscription in Greek that this tomb belonged to C. Cassius in the 1st century. An eagle or a statue of Nike, the Goddess of Victory is thought to have been over the 6th stone on the top of the tomb. It is clear from the remains that there is a statue of Philiscus in the other side of the tomb.

Hypoge

It is an underground tomb in Elbeyli Village. It is understood that it was built in the 4th or 5th century. The ceiling and walls are covered with coloured frescoes, typical to the early Christianity period. There are 3 graves in the grave room.

Dörttepeler Tumulus

It is in the graveyard within Elbeyli Municipality. Two monumental tombs are found in the Tumulus. The first tomb is nearby the road. Rectangular grave room with a dromos (narrow passageway to the grave room), has two klines (stone seating) on both sides. The other tomb is in a grave room made of marble, and covered with rough stone and trees.

Senatus Palace (Byzantium Palace)

The palace was built in the 4th century, and it is now covered with the lake water. Floor mosaics are under ground. The first Nicaea Consul which was very important for the Christian Community gathered here in 325.

City Walls

The pentagonal city walls surrounding İznik are 4970 metre long. The construction of the city walls started in Hellenistic Period. But they took their final shape by the new additions during the Roman and Byzantine Periods. When looked from the junction point of two streets, four main gates can be seen. Two of the four main gates, namely Lefke and Constantinople Gates, have survived to the present day in good condition. Marble relief frieze pieces were used in the construction of these two gates. The masks brought from the theatre can be seen in Constantinople Gate.

Theatre

İznik Ancient Theatre was built on a large area between the lake shore and Yenişehir Gate. Theatre was built by the efforts of Bithynia Proconsul, Plinius in between 111 and 112 during the reign of Empire Traianus. It was turned into a mass grave in the 13th century. In the following years, archaeological excavations revealed that a Church, Palace, Ottoman Ceramic Workshops and Tile Kilns had been constructed within it.

Bocek Ayazma

Being one of the intact remains from the 6th century, the structure is thought to have been a part of Hyakinthos Monastery. This circular structure, having been covered with a dome, is next to the Koimesis Church.

The Church of Koimesis

Bishop Hyakinthos had it built in the 8th century. It is supposed to have been a part of Hyakinthos Monastery. It was fully demolished by the earthquake in 1065, and later on it was renovated by additions. The mosaics and icons of the Church were renovated again in 1807.

The Church of Hagia Sophia

Being at the junction of two streets, the Church is in the city centre. It is a work of Byzantine Period, and thought to have been renovated probably after the earthquake in 1807. It was renamed Orhan Ghazi Mosque in 1331. Having been demolished by the earthquake and fire, church was renewed to a great extent by Architect Sinan in 16th century. On the wall of a grave room, there is a fresco of Christ. The 7th Consul in 787 gathered there. Therefore, it is an important spot for faith tourism.

The Church of Hagios Tryphonos

It is located on the left side of the street towards Constantinople Gate. The cross shaped church has four columns. The wall technique and the cross-shaped plan of the church indicate that it was a Byzantine work having been built between the 10th and 12nd centuries.

The Church of Ayatrifon

Supposed to have been built by Teodoros Laskaris in the name of Aya Trinos in 13th century, the church is located on the right side of the street leading to the Yenişehir Gate. Its plan is similiar to the one used in Kariye Mosque in İstanbul. It is understood from the plan that it was covered with a huge dome, and its floor is decorated with beautiful mosaics.

Hacı Özbek Mosque

It was the first Ottoman mosque built in Iznik in 1333. Its tile-covered dome is in 8 m in diameter. The mosque does not have a minaret.

Green Mosque

Green Mosque, named after the colour of its minaret, is the symbol of the İznik. It was built by Architect Hacı Mustafa between 1378 and 1391. With its single dome, it is one of the most splendid mosques having been built in the Early Ottoman Period. Its unique minaret is on the right side of the mosque. Its unique minaret, which is a reflection of Seljuk tradition on the Ottoman art in the early period, is on the right side of the mosque. The main part is ornamented with blue and green ceramic tiles in a zigzag mosaic technique.

Mahmut Çelebi Mosque

Mahmut Çelebi it built in 1442. Its square main part is covered with a single dome. The minaret is bricky.

Orhan Bey Mosque

The ruins of the mosque is located outside of the Yenişehir Gate. There is a Turkish Bath between the mosque and the city walls.

Tombs

Sheikh Kutbettin Mosque and Tomb, Eşref-i Rumi Mosque and Tomb, Yakup Çelebi Lodge and Tomb, Kırgızlar Tomb, Sarı Saltuk Tomb, Hayrettin Pasha Tomb, Çandarlı İbrahim Pasha Tomb and Soup Kitchen, Çandarlı Halil Pasha Tomb, Huysuzlar Tomb, Ahiveyn Sultan Tomb, Abdülvahap Sancaktarı Tomb are the important tombs in İznik.

Rüstem Paşa Inn

At present, it is in ruin between the houses. Some north and east parts of its wall is standing. It was built in the 16th century.
İsmail Bey Hamam (Public Bath)

It dates back to the late 14th and the early 15th centuries. With its interior architecture, it is an outstanding structure. The bath, covered with four domes, has five sections.

Hacı Hamza Hamam (Public Bath)

The bath is located next to the Mahmut Çelebi Mosque built in the 15th century. It is also called as Murat the second Bath. There are two different sections for Women and Men, and Men Section is still being used.

Meydan Hamam (Public Bath)

The other name of the bath is Murat the first Bath. It dates back to the 14th century. The bath has two sections.