İzmir

Area : 11.973 km²

Population : 3.370.866 (2000)

Traffic Code : 35

İzmir is the third biggest city in Turkey, with a population of around 2.5 million, the second biggest port after Istanbul, and a good transport hub. Once the ancient city of Smyrna, it is now a modern, developed, and busy commercial centre, set around a huge bay and surrounded by mountains and was. The broad boulevards, glass-fronted buildings and modern shopping centres are dotted with traditional red-tiled roofs, the 18th century market, and old mosques and churches, although the city has an atmosphere more of Mediterranean Europe than traditional Turkey.

The climate is comfortable, with a relatively mild summer due to the refreshing breeze from the Aegean. The long attractive palm-fringed promenade, Birince Kordon, which stretches the entire length of the city up to the Alsancak Ferry Terminal, is a popular spot for evening walks, and there are many cafes along the waterfront. Izmir has a good selection of culture and entertainment, from the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museums, to the Izmir State Opera and Ballet and Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, to the many bars and clubs. The cosmopolitan and lively city gets even busier during the International Izmir Festival (mid-June to mid-July) with music and dance, with performances also in nearby Cesme and Ephesus.

Districts : Balcova, Cigli, Gaziemir, Karsiyaka, Konak, Aliaga, Bayindir, Bergama, Beydag, Bornova, Buca, Cesme, Dikili, Foca, Karaburun, Kemalpasa, Kinik, Kiraz, Menderes, Menemen, Narlibahce, Odemis, Seferihisar, Selcuk, Tire, Turbalı and Urla.

Selçuk

Bergama

Çeşme

Foça

Aliağa: Aliağa, which is 60 km. north of İzmir, have signes of İzmir and Bergama civilizations. 4 of the 12 cities, composing the biggest and most important ones among Aiol cities, whose number is exceeding 30 at Aegean coasts, are within Aigaia, Kyme, Myrna and Gryneion province territories.
Dikili: Dikili is a pretty province and popular summer resort, around 120km north of Izmir. Candarli is nearby, and the area is full of natural beauty as well as historical interest. There is a crater lake in Medivenli village, and pine groves and ancient caverns in Demirtas and Delitas. The area is also famous for its hot springs, which can be found in Nebiler, Bademli and Kocaoba villages. The port at Dikili is large enough for three passenger ships, and is a good transport connection.

Seferihisar: Teos antic city at Sığacık region, Karaköse ruins at Doğanbey - Gerenalanı region, former settlement area constructed within castle and castle, constructed by Ottomans at Sığacık, monumental structures of Seljukian and Ottoman period at province center of the province, whose settlement history reaches till 1000 B. C., are composing the archeological and historical source potential of the region. Seferihisar has beautiful beaches and bays with its 27 km. Coastal band.

Menderes: Menderes province, which draws attention with its satsuma, beautiful bays and historical values, is 20 km. away from İzmir. Lebedos Antic City is at west of province at Ürkmez region. Ruins of Kolophon, Klaros, Notion and Lebedos Antic Cities, which are on Menderes - Seljukian road as adjacent to each other, are composing the important archeological sources of the province. Gümüldür borough is the producer region of Satsuma, which is a world famous kind of tangerine. Özdere is one of the nine big tourism regions of Aegean Region, and it is a tourism borough where amateur fishermen can fish besides its clear sea and coast. Various colored and shaped beads which are produced in natives at Görece Village of Menderes, are drawing attention of national and international tourists.

Karaburun: Karaburun is at the northern point of the Urla Peninsula, and its northern and western coasts have beautiful bays surrounding the Izmir bay. There were settlements in this area which date back to the Stone Age, and excavations have indicated it was a developed cultural centre during the Hittite period, then a trading centre during the Aiol, Lydia and Roman civilisations. It is now the newest suburb of Izmir, and has a couple of small guest houses and fish restaurants. Its most dramatic feature is the setting, with villages and orchards clinging to the steep rock face. There is a bus service in the area, although private vehicles offer more possibilities for exploring.

Urla: Urla is in the middle of the peninsula and holds all the characteristics of the Aegean. It lies 38km west of Izmir and used to be a cultural centre with remains unearthed dating back to the Hitties. It was originally the site of the Ionian city of Clazomenae, with probably the oldest regularly used port in the world. Pieces of art and sculpture found during excavations are now exhibited in the Louvre, Athens National Museum and Izmir Archaeology Museum.

Torbalı: An ancient Ionian city, famous for its wines and religious centre, has three marble alters devoted to the Roman Emperor August and his foster child Germanikys, in an ancient theatre which dominates the valley. Pieces of art found during excavations are exhibited in Izmir and Ephesus museums. The town has the remains of an old port and a few holiday complexes, and is set attractively against a pine forest.

Ödemiş: The north of Odemis, which is 113km southeast of Izmir, are the ruins of Hypaiapa. The historical importance of the region began with Birgi, west of Odemis, which was the capital during the Aydinogullari period and contained outstanding examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Birgi has been on the World Cultural Heritage list since 1994, and points of interest here include Cakiraga Mansion, Imam-i Birgivi Medrese and Sultan Sah Mausoleum.

Tire: One of the largest towns in the area, Tire is 82km southeast of Izmir and lies at the foot of the Aydin Mountains. Its long cultural heritage includes periods under the Hittites, Frygians, Lydians, Persians, Romans and Byzantines, and developed its strong links with the economy during the Ottoman period. The town has an attractive old quarter with many impressive examples of Islamic architecture, and a lively Tuesday market influenced by the gypsy population in the surrounding villages.

Kemalpaşa: The historical background of Kemalpasa, which lies 29km west of Izmir, dates back to 1300 BC. It was host to the Akkads, Hitties, Seljuk and Ottoman civilisations, and was a resort between the Art and Ion cities during Roman and Byzantine times. The only remains from the Hittites in the Aegean region is the Karabel relief, which is in the province. Previously known in ancient times as Nymphaion, the town lies at the foot of Nif mountain at 200m altitude, and is best known for its cherries and pine forests.

How to Get
By Road : Most long distance buses come into the huge bus station, around 8km northeast of the city centre, and there are public buses and taxis to and from the city. Izmir is connected to every part of the country, with major destinations having a service at least every hour. These include: Istanbul (10 hours), Ankara (9 hours), Antalya (9 hours), Bursa (7 hours), Marmaris (6 hours), Bodrum (4 hours) and Konya (8 hours).
From Uckuyular bus station, 7km southwest of Konak, there are regular services to Cesme (90 mins) and Seferihisar (1 hour).

Main Bus Station Tel: (0232) 472 1010. Fax: 472 0418

Uckuyuklar Bus Station Tel: (0232) 259 8862

By Rail : Izmir has two railway stations: Basmane in the city centre is the major terminal for intercity trains, and Alsancak in the north is mainly a commuter and local route.

The main intercity services include: Ankara (Mavi Tren is the fastest at 14 hours), Denizli (3 express trains daily, 5-6 hours) and Isparta (9 hours). Trains for Istanbul connect with a ferry at Bandirma.

Basmane Station Tel: (0232) 484 8638

Alsancak Station Tel: (0232) 458 3131

By Sea : There is a weekly ferry from Istanbul-Izmir (19 hours), operating at weekends, and one or two weekly ferries between Izmir and Venice (67 hours). All ferries dock at the Alsancak Ferry Terminal, 2km from north of the city centre.

Alsansak Yeni Liman (terminal) Tel: (0232) 464 8864 / 89. Fax: 464 7834.

By Air : Adnan Menderes Airport, 16km south of the city centre, it has several daily flights to Istanbul, Ankara and Antalya. There are also regular flights from many European cities. Airport buses go to and from the city centre, and there are hourly trains to Alsancak Station.

Airport Tel : (0232) 274 2187. Fax: 274 2071

Kemeraltı Bazaar : The big bazaar in the city centre stretches from the coast road to the Konak area, and is a major shopping centre with a vast array of goods inside. It combines modern businesses, shops and cafes, with antiques, dried fruit, household and leather goods in old alleyways with vaults and domes.

Inside the bazaar, there is one of the most interesting structures of Izmir: Kizlaragasi Hani is an Ottoman caravanserai inside the Halim Aga Bazaar and was completed in 1745. This covered market sells hand-made products, carpets, leather and souvenirs. There are many entrances to the markets, from Basmane, Konak and Anafartalar. Konak is one of the oldest areas of the city, with most of the buildings that survived the great fire, although the traditional areas are gradually being modernised. This is the location of the city’s landmark, the Saat Kulesi (Ottoman clock tower) decorated with tiles.

Asansör (Elevator) : The elevator was constructed by Jewish businessman Nesim Levi in 1907, in order to make life easier for the local residents to go to their mansions on the top of the hill. These days tourists use it to admire the views of the old streets and houses of Mithatpasa. Located in the heart of Izmir’s old Jewish quarter, it is housed in a 50m-high brick tower and after refurbishment in 1992 it now contains a café on the top floor, and the original hydraulics are exhibited on the ground floor. In its heyday in the 1930s, it also contained a theatre, cinema, refreshment stall and photographer’s shop.

Kültürpark : The big Kulturpark in the city centre is one of the densest green areas in Izmir, covering 30 hectares. There is a zoo, artificial lake, parachute tower, open-air theatre and a collection of bars and cafes. This has been the venue of the International Izmir Fair every August since 1936.

Botanic Garden : One of the best Botanical Gardens of Turkey, is in the Ege University field. There are around 3000 species of plants from the tropical regions to the Alps, many of which are kept under artificial conditions. The arboretum has hundreds of species of trees and bushes, and the herbarium centre contains dried plant samples that are preserved for the use of scientific research.

İzmir Archeology Museum : This is one of the first museums was been established in Western Anatolia, and has exhibits unearthed from excavations in the Izmir region. In addition to Greek and Roman remains, friezes, ancient terracotta, Lycian sarcophagi, and Bronze age pottery, there is also art from the Ion, Greek, Roman and Byzantine periods. The entire collection is spread over three floors and ground floor.

Museum Tel : (+90-232) 489 07 96

Address: Bahri Baba Parkı Konak

Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.

Ethnography Museum : Opposite the Archaeological Museum, the Ethnographic Museum building was constructed on an inclined terrace in the early 19th century, in a Neoclassical style. It used to be St Roch’s Hospital for treating patients with the plague, was repaired by the French in 1845 and then became a centre for an organisation caring for poor Christian families. It was restored in between 1985 and 1988, and then re-opened as the museum.
Inside, the colourful displays reveal local crafts, homes and folk culture from the 19th century. These include a reconstruction of the first Ottoman pharmacist in the area, and part of a traditional house, bridal chamber and kitchen. There are explanations and displays relating to camel wrestling, pottery production and even a kiln to make the blue beads to ward off the evil eye.

Museum Tel : (+90-232) 489 07 96

Address: Bahri Baba Parkı - Konak

Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.

İzmir Atatürk Museum : This building, on the big waterfront street Birinci Kordon, was constructed as a residence in between 1875 and 1880. Ataturk stayed there whilst participating in the Izmir Economic Congress on 17th February 1923, and the building was presented to him as a gift in 1926 and then opened to the public as a museum after his death. The mansion contains furnishings and ornaments from Ataturk’s era. Museum

Tel: (0232) 464 4805

Opening hours: 08.30 - 12.00 & 13.00 - 17.00, closed Mondays.

Ödemiş Archeology Museum : There are exhibition halls, administrative departments, library, warehouses, photography hall, atölye and laboratory room. 12.000 years of age pieces of art coming from Prehistoric Age are exhibiting in the Museum, opened on 1987.

Museum Tel: (+ 90 - 232) 545 11 84

Address: Ödemiş

Open hours to visit: 08.30 - 12.00 / 13.00 - 17.00 Open days to visit: Everyday except Monday

Tire Museum : In the museum composed of an archeological and ethnographic hall 3592 pieces of archeological pieces of art, 3080 ethnographic pieces of art, 21980 coins, 78 pieces of archive documents, 16 pieces of manuscripts and other pieces of art.

Museum Tel: (+ 90 - 232) 512 18 62

Address: Cumhuriyet Mah. Şanizade Meydanı

Open hours to visit: 08.30 - 12.00 13.00 - 17.00 Open days to visit: Everyday except Monday

Bayraklı (Former İzmir) : Located at the northeast of Izmir Bay, Bayrakli was the first known settlement of Izmir, which archaeological excavations indicate was probably around 3000 BC. There is a structure from the 7th century BC, situated on the upper part of Bayrakli, which was the grave of the mythological king, Tantalus.

Kadifekale (Velvet Castle) : The old fortress on the hill at the southeast of the city offers unrivalled views of the surrounding area, and at its best at sunset, when the lights start to come on and the call to prayer echoes from many mosques. It was founded in the 4th century BC by Lysimakhos, one of Alexander the Great’s generals, and was strategically placed in view of the harbour and the city. It is possible to walk up to the citadel from the Agora, through narrow streets and old houses, and it remains open although is not lit at night. On the walls of the ruins are Roman and Byzantine engravings and the remaining structures include the south walls and five towers at the west, which date back to the Medieval Age.

Agora : Within the crowded streets of Konak, the agora used to be the venue for political gatherings and elections. It was built on the orders of Alexander the Great, probably in the 2nd century BC, and is the only surviving pre-Ottoman monument, although what remains was the reconstruction by the Romans after a devastating earthquake. There are 14 Corinthian columns, vaulted chambers and hundreds of Ottoman graveyards in the eastern section. Many treasures unearthed during excavations are now exhibited in the Archaeology Museum.

Mosque, Church and Synagogues
The most important mosques in the city are Hisar, Yali (Konak), Salepcioglu and Kestane Pazari Mosque. Others in the city include Sadirvan, Basdurak, Kemeralti (built in1812), Faik Pasa, (repaired in 1842), Han Bey, Hatuniye Mosque, Seyh, Fettah, Yali, Ali Aga, Selvili Mescit, Abdullah Efendi and Iki Cesmelik Mosque.

St. Polycarp Church, in Gaziosmanpasa, is the oldest church in Izmir and was lavishly rebuilt in the 19th century by the French. St Polycarp was Smyrna’s first bishop, and when he refused to follow the orders of the Romans to renounce his faith, he was burnt at the stake.

Religion Tourism

Other churches include;
Dome Cathedral St. John
Sehit Nevres Bul.29, Alsancak.
Santa Maria

Halit Ziya Bul. No: 67
Notre Dame De St. Rosarei

1481 Sokak. No: 8, Alsancak
Notre Dame De Lourders

81 Sokak No: 10, Goztepe
St. John the Bapist

Kemalpasa Caddesi. No: 15, Buca
Santa Maria

Kars Okulu Sk. No: 5, Bornova,
St. Anthony of Pauda

1610 Sokak. No: 5, Bayrakli
St. Helen

1729 Sokak. No: 53, Karsiyaka
St. John’s Church (Anglican)

Talat Pasa Bulvari, Alsancak
St. Mary Magdalene (Protestant)
Hurriyet Caddesi No:18, Bornova
Aya Fotini (Orthodox)

1374 Sokak. No: 24, Alsancak (Open for only festivals)
Synagogues; Bet Yisrael
Mithatpasa Caddesi. No: 265
Sinyora Iveret

927 Sokak. No: 7, Mezarlikbasi
Saar Asamayim

1390 Sokak. No: 4, Alsancak
Berkholim

Ikicesmelik Caddesi. No: 40

Beaches
The province of Izmir has a large size coastline on the Aegean, with beaches and areas for watersports easily accessible from the city by private or public transport from Uckuyular bus station. Good beaches include Pamucak, Urla, Gulbahce, Cesme, Altinkum, Foca and Dikili.

Yacht Ports
The area south of the Cesme peninsula is a significant part of the yachting routes, and the area between Cesme and Kusadasi is especially popular. Just south of Cesme is Alacati Harbour, which can accommodate 80 yachts and has many facilities. Urla Harbour can accommodate 20 boats with another 175 in the fisherman’s shelter, and 80 in Ozbekkoy harbour.

Thermal Springs
Mentioned in Homer’s epics as Agamemnon Thermal Springs, and in the writings of geographer Strabon, these waters have been used to cure various ailments. Members of Alexander the Great’s army used the spring to heal their wounds, which made their healing powers famous. The hot water mud baths and mineral springs, which contain sodium bicarbonate and chloride, are said to cure upper respiratory inflammation, nephritis, rheumatism, skin diseases and metabolism problems. The resort is 10km west of Izmir, and there is accommodation available at the resort.

Thermal Tourism Centers

Bayındır Hot Springs : The group of thermal springs 8 km north of Bayındır and around 60km southeast of Izmir, comprises of Derekoy and Ergendi springs, both of which are roughly 40ºC. The waters contain sulphur and sodium bicarbonate, and are said to heal rheumatism and skin diseases.

Menemen Hot Springs : The hot springs around Menemen, a few kilometres northwest of Izmir, are actually bubbling inside a cavern. The rocks have ancient engravings, and the remains of the spring have formed a natural bath with waters said to heal broken bones and poor blood circulation.

Ilıcagöl Hot Spring : Northwest of Menemen is a lake fed by hot springs, and mud baths with the warm sulphur water are said to heal rheumatism, skin diseases, and problems affecting the urethra.

Dikili Hot Spring : The hot spring at Nebiler is 4km west of the Dikili-Ayvalik road, and contains hydro-acetate ions.

Tavşan Adası Hot Spring : The springs are 15 km southwest of Tire and around 100km southeast of Izmir, near the village of Uzgur. The hot waters of this resort are used for bathing - good for rheumatism, skin diseases and gynaecological disorders, and drinking - lung and nutrient metabolic irregularities.

Sports Activities
Hunting Tourism : Foreigners can only hunt in parties organised by Turkish travel agencies that have been authorised by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs. These agencies provide all the information concerning seasons, authorised zones, permits, weapons and ammunition. A list of agencies can be obtained from the Union of Travel Agencies (TURSAB).

For more information, contact:

- Forest Ministry, National Parks and Wildlife General Directorate, Gazi Tesisleri No 11, Gazi, Ankara.
Tel: (312) 221 17 69 / 212 63 00
Fax: 222 5140

-Youth and Sport General Directorate, Hunting and Marksman Federation
Ulus İshanı A Blok 4 Kat No 404, Ulus, Ankara.
Tel: (312) 310 6160/310 3960.
Fax: 310 6160

Around Izmir there are wild boar, especially near Cesme and the Karaburun peninsula, and wild goats. Visitors to check which animals are forbidden to be hunted.

Mountaineering : Mountaineering, which is developed recently among youths and students in İzmir region, is dealt and improved as a sport. Balçova Hill and Mount Yamanlar, where Balçova cable railway is present, are the places where mount sports are performed as amateur. Beyond this, Madran Mountains, which at the north part of the mountain chains, which are steeply descending to İzmir bay, are serving very adequate possibilities in connection with mountaineering with 2000 meters exceeding height.

Youth Tourism : There are forestry and youth camps in İzmir, where youth can benefit from.

İzmir Tourism Training Center

İzmir Forestry Camps

İzmir Youth Camps

Skiing Center : There is a natural ski run at the north base of the Bozdag mountain, and the Ski Centre based here is only 90 minutes from Izmir. It is famous for being the highest point and lowest humidity in the Aegean, making it a popular resort for winter sports and for escaping the summer heat. It has a ski school, plus 22 tourist bungalows, 12 hotel rooms, a restaurant, café, bar, shopping centre and health services.
Bozdağ Skiing Facility

Ornithology : Kücük Menderes Basın, in which İzmir is situated, has two significant areas for bird watching; Lake Ildır and Kucuk Menderes Delta.

Küçük Menderes Basin Bird Areas

Water sports : Bays of İzmir have appropriate points for diving

Art, Culture and Amusement
For many years Izmir has enjoyed its reputation as a cosmopolitan city of culture. The Ataturk Cultural Centre hosts weekend concerts by the Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, and the Izmir State Opera and Ballet perform in an Ottoman art deco building on Milli Kutuphane Caddesi. During the summer there are events at the open-air theatre in the Kulturpark, and mid-June sees the month-long International Izmir festival with many events also in Cesme and Selcuk. The International Film Festival takes place every April, with foreign films shown in original language with subtitles.

Regular nightlife includes a host of bars and nightclubs in the wealthy suburb of Alsansak, with more venues on Birinci Kordon and the surrounding streets. The cinemas around the city centre tend to show blockbuster American films, many of which are dubbed into Turkish.