With characteristics quite typical of a Mediterranean climate, the summers are hot and dry with an average temperature of 28°C in July and August, and winters cool and rainy at around 10°C. Because of its location, the city tends to be a little cooler that the rest of the region, and the average water temperature varies between 11°C (January) to 26°C (August).
The history of Izmir stretches back to around 3000 BC when the Trojans founded the city in Tepekule in the northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the birthplace of Homer, who was thought to have lived there around the 8th century BC. The Aeolians, the first settlers, were eventually taken over by the Ionians, and then the Lydians destroyed the city around 600BC before a brief recovery following Alexander the Great’s arrival in 334 BC.
After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes and re-established Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later reconstructed and became a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving and sophisticated city and a huge trading centre, despite its frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with Greek Orthodox, Jews and Muslims, and many languages were spoken amongst locals and visiting traders.
Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, Greece was granted a mandate over Izmir and entered the area, coming against the resistance of Ataturk’s nationalists. This resulted in a 3-day bloody battle, during which 70% of the city was burned to the ground and thousands were killed, and the beaten Greeks eventually left on the waiting ships. Ataturk formally took Izmir on 9 September 1922, considered to be the day of victory in the War of Independence and is a national holiday.
Izmir’s cuisine has largely been affected by its multicultural history, hence the large variety of food originating from the Aegean, Mediterranean and Anatolian regions. Another factor is the large area of land surrounding the region which grows a rich selection of vegetables. Some of the common dishes found here are tarhana soup (made from dried yoghurt and tomatoes), Izmir meatballs, keskek (boiled wheat with meat) zerde (sweetened rice with saffron) and mucver (made from squash and eggs).
The busiest shopping area is the Kemeralti Streets, which still retain a 19th century atmosphere of pull-down shutters, thresholds of the doors, low ceilings and old briquettes. On both sides of Anafartalar Caddesi is the lively atmosphere of the street vendors, bronze workers and fishermen, and Fevzipasa Bulvari which is famous for its leather garments. In contrast to the traditional and busy old market, Alsacak has modern boutiques and Cankaya has a mass shopping centre.
- Visiting Birgi Cakiraga Mansion, Kızlarağası Han, and Asansör,
- Stepping into the past in Izmir Archaeology Museum, Ataturk Museum, Kordonboyu and Kemeralti Bazaar.
- Tasting Izmir’s famous meatballs in the Asansor Restaurant.
- Buying tasty local dried figs and sultanas
- Shopping for Ödemis Silk (Pembizar), hand-painted handkerchiefs and Görece blue beads,
- Visiting the International Izmir Festival.
Sites
Archaeological Sites: 253
Urban Sites: 26
Natural Sites: 155
Historical Sites: 28
Other Sites
Archaeological and Natural Sites: 18
Historical and Natural Sites: 1
Archaeological and Urban Sites: 7
Historical and Urban Sites: 4
Natural and Urban Sites: 1
Total: 493
Cultural (at Single Construction Scale) and Natural Heritages: 4395
TOTAL: 4888
Contact Information
Governorship : (+90-232) 441 14 40
Municipality : (+90-232) 482 11 70
Hospital : (+90-232) 366 88 88
Police : (+90-232) 489 05 00
Tourism Police : (+90-232) 446 14 54
Gendarme : (+90-232) 583 60 08
Provincial Directorate : (+90-232) 483 62 16/483 51 17
Provincial Cultural Directorate : (+90-232) 482 06 95
Tourism Information Office : (+90-232) 445 73 90
Gaziemir Tourism Information Office : (+90-232) 274 22 14
Ödemiş Contact Office : (+90-232) 545 31 50
Tire Contact Office : (+90-232) 512 66 14
Özdere Contact Office : (+90-232) 797 85 05
Adnan Menderes Airport : (+90-232) 274 21 10
Bornova Emergency Travmatoloji : (+90-232) 374 23 23
Harbour : (+90-232) 464 88 64 - 464 88 89
Governorship : (+90-232) 441 14 40
Municipality : (+90-232) 482 11 70
Hospital : (+90-232) 366 88 88
Police : (+90-232) 489 05 00
Tourism Police : (+90-232) 446 14 54
Gendarme : (+90-232) 583 60 08
Provincial Directorate : (+90-232) 483 62 16/483 51 17
Tourism Information Office : (+90-232) 445 73 90
Gaziemir Tourism Information Office : (+90-232) 274 22 14
Ödemiş Contact Office : (+90-232) 545 31 50
Tire Contact Office : (+90-232) 512 66 14
Özdere Contact Office : (+90-232) 797 85 05
Adnan Menderes Airport : (+90-232) 274 21 10
Bornova Emergency Travmatoloji : (+90-232) 374 23 23
Harbour : (+90-232) 464 88 64 - 464 88 89
Bergama Camping Bergama Y.Illıca / G.İzmir
Tel: (232) 633 39 02
Berksoy Turizm İşl. Bergama
Tel: (232) 633 25 95
Afacan Motel Camping Yenişarkan / İncirlik
Tel: (232) 628 70 30
Oba Camping Güzbahçe / İzmir
Tel: (232) 234 20 15
U-Camp Çeşmealtı Urla / İzmir
Tel: (232) 755 10 21
Evren Camping Karaburun / İzmir
Tel: (232) 489 94 54
V-Camp Ilıca-Çeşme / İzmir
Tel: (232) 717 22 24
Denizatı Camping Gümüldür / İzmir
Tel: (232) 793 10 19
Dalpet Camping Aydın Yolu/İzmir
Tel: (232) 257 52 01
Turiste Motel Camping İzmir
Tel: (232) 722 12 21
Pamucak Tur. Tes. Selçuk
Tel: (232) 892 36 36
Gümüldür 66 Evler Gümüldür / İzmir
Tel: (232) 793 19 97
Tanay Şifne Yolu, Ilıca / Çeşme
Tel: (232) 729 35 76
Teos-Emeksiz Sığacık, Seferihisar / İzmir
Tel: (232) 369 64 85
Kalemlik Çukurallı Mah. Özdere / İzmir
Tel: (232) 369 64 85
Smyrna in Ancient Times
Our knowledge of Smyrna is based on the fables of some ancient writers rather than on scientific data. For example in one of these stories, it is claimed that the city was founded by Tantalos, the mythic king of Phrygia, whereas in another this area is claimed to be inhabited by Lelegs. But according to other ancient stories and a common thesis of many historians of our day, the city was founded by an Amazon (a woman warrior), during the Hitite rule of Anatolia. However, “Myrina”, which is one of the Aiolis cities also claimed to be founded by an Amazon, seems to be a similar name to Smyrna. There have been many speculations about the meaning of Smyrna. The most reasonable seems to be that the name is related to the place name Ti-smurna, mentioned in the Kültepe inscriptions. On the other hand, the name of the city has been written as Zmyrna on monuments and coins dating back to Hellenistic and Roman times but this is a different pronunciation of the word. This is a very common practice in old Greek.
We have limited knowledge in regard with the earlier periods of Smyrna which was inhabited by Aiols but later on invaded by lons. According to a present excavation taking place in Bayraklı (the district where the city was first founded) the history of the area dates back to 3000 B.C.. The ruins found in Bayraklı tumulus which used to have contact with the sea in ancient times, show that the area had been deserted in IVth century B.C.. As will be discussed later on, the city is known to have been moved onto the slopes of Pagos as a developed and extended city.
Research shows us that the Greek presence started in the middle of Xth century B.C. by Aiol colonisation and the city was invaded a century later by lons. According to Herodotos and other an cient writers, the city was invaded by a group of Kolophons who had been accepted as immigrants to Smyrna. Forced to leave their lands, they took advantage of the opportunity provided by the departure of the Smyrnians outside the city to celebrate a religious festival to seize the city. It was in this way that the lons gained possession of the city. In fact this thesis is suppoıted by ceramic finding discovered in Bayraklı. Smyrna now a lon city and gradually growing stronger claimed membership to the Confederation (Panionion) founded by twelve lonian cities (Miletos, Myous, Priene, Ephesos, Kolophon, Lebedos, Teos, Erythrai, Klazomenai, Phokaia, Samos and Khios) but was rejected. The reason was either the veto of Kolophon or the desire of the (Inion (Dodekapoleis) to keep the number of members constant.
The VIIth century B.C. was a time of prosperity and peace for Smyrna and for Western Anatolia. But also it was during this time that Smyrnians had to fight against the attacks of the Lydian King Gyges. Gyges, enthroned in 685 B.C.; in order to control the Western Anatolia trade and the import-export harbours, attacked Smyrna, Magnesia, Kolophon and Miletos. Although the Smyrnians fought back against Gyges bravely, they failed to prevent Alyattes, the Lydian King, from conquering the city and destroying it around 600 B.C.. Alyattes forced the citizens to leave the city and live in villages. We neither know the names nor the locations of these villages. But it is possible to say that they might have been on the fertile plains like that of Bayraklı. As a consequence for 300 years, during the golden age of the Greek civilisation, the Classical Period, Smyrna was been wiped from the historic scene.
After the conquest of the East by Alexander the Great, all the Hellenic cities of West Anatolia, including Smyrna achieved peace and prosperity. Pausanias, on the re-establishment of Smyrna says the following: Alexander the Great, in 334 B.C. visits Smyrna and goes hunting on Pagos Hill (Kadifekale) when exhausted, he falls asleep under a plane-tree next to the Nemesis temple. In his dream, the Three Goddess Nemesis asks him to establish a city there and bring the people of the old city (Bayraklı) to this city. But in those days there was a tradition to ask for an oracle before a new city was to be established.
So the Smyrnians went and asked for help from Apollon. He replied with the following words: “There and four times happy shall those men be hereafter. Who shall dwell on Pagus beyond the sacred Meles” Encouraged, the people of Smyrna settled on the slopes of Pagos and the new city was established. When Alexander the Great died in 323 B.C., the establishment of the city was continued by Antigonos and was finally completed by Lysimakhos. For this reason, the newly established Smyrna at Kadifekale was called by the name of Lysimakhos’s daughter, Eurydikeia (the city of Eurydikeia) but shortly after, the name was abandoned. But Alexander the Great has always been regarded as the founder of the city. Six hundred years later that is in the 3rd century A.D. an illustration of Alexander the Great sleeping under a plane-tree and two Nemeses can be seen on a Smyrnian coin.
The newly established Smyrna on Pagos was recognised and respected by Hellenistic Monarchs and independent cities. In the 3rd century A.D., the city was accepted as the 13th member of the lonian Confederation which had rejected an earlier attempt by Smyrna to join. But, at this time, city-States could not survive on their own without the support of powerful States like Pergamon, Syria and Rome. The Smyrnians, however, were aware of this and established a friendship with the Syrians. Also, the city was declared to be sacred and untouchable by the king Seleukos II. During this time that Pergamon become a strong power in western Anatolia, the city of Smyrna was ruled by Pergamon during the Attalos I period. Yet, during this era, the city was free. lt could form its own army, could print money but could not act independently in relation to other cities without the approval of Pergamon.
In the 3rd century B.C., we see close relations between the Romans and the Pergamon Kingdom, through this; they tried to reinforce their sovereignty in Western Anatolia. It is during this era that the Smymians chose the side of the more powerful and built a temple in the name of the Goddess of Rome in 195 B.C.. In 190 B.C., the Romans, with the aid of the Pergamon Kingdom and Smyrna, defeated the Syrian King Anthiokos III in the Magnesian War fought near Manisa for sovereignty over Western Anatolia. In the Apomeia peace treaty signed right after the war, Smyma preserved its independent position in relation to Pergamon.
In 133 B.C., right after the death of the Pergamon King Attalos III, a man named Aristonikos rebelled against the Romans and strove to be the king of Pergamon. The fight between Aristonikos and Rome lasted about four years and he was finally suppressed. Now, the Pergamon Kingdom is replaced by the Asian State of the Romans. During this time, Smyrna is one of the cities let free by this newly established State. But after 70-80 years, in the middle of the 1st century B.C., this freedom was taken back because Smyrna had hosted an enemy of Rome, Pontus King Mithridates, and had printed a coin with his portrait on. Now Smyrna is one of the dependent cities.
Smyrna, although a part of the Asian State during the Roman Kingdom, had all the advantages of the Empire and had led a life of prosperity. It is no doubt that all the monuments had been erected during this period. For example, Strabon who saw the city during the early Empire times used the expression “the most beautiful of all cities”. Of course, what Strabon meant was not the natural beauty of the city but the spectacular buildings that had been erected.
“A part of the city is on the mountain Pagos and is surrounded by city walls. But the real city is on the flat land where the harbour, Metroon and the gymnasium stands. The city is spectacular with its area divided by straight streets. The streets are cohered with stone tiles, there are double layered doors (porticos) in the shape of quadrangles. There is also a library and a wooden statue of Homeros and his altar located on a quadrangle stoa called Homereion. Smyrnians claim that Homeros is also a Smyrnian citizen and a Smyrnian coin called Homereion exists. The river Meles flows from just near the city walls. Apart from all the monuments there is also a sea-port that can close in the event of an emergency. But there is also a fault of Smyrna which can not be ignored. When laying the stone tiles, the engineers forgot to lay a sewerage system under the stones and for this reason especially on rainy days dirty water couers all the streets. ”
Many others like Strabon have mentioned the beauty of Smyrna. For example, P. Aelius Aristides (117-180 B.C.) who had spend a period of his life there seems to verify what Strobon has said about the city. According to Aristides, there was a Zeus Altar in the middle of the Agora (During the Agora excavations, there have been findings of reliefs that surrouıided the Agora and that illustrate Demeter and Poseidon) The natural history writer Plinius when describing Smyrna, described it as “the light of Asia”, the dialogue writer Lucianus could say about a woman being as “beautiful as Smyrna”.
Smymians who were proud of the beauty of their city used the expression “the first and the most spectacular of Asia in beauty and in greatness… the ornament of lonia” on coins and monuments. In any case, being from Smyrna was considered such a privilege that in an epitaph that is dated in the Age of Roman Empire information was given about the dead as “Birth place: Dear Smyrna”.
But the Smyrna of spectacular monuments was damaged by two earthquakes, one in 17 B.C. and the other in the year 178. After the first one, the Roman King Tiberius, and after the second one, Marcus Aurelius, sent fınancial aid to the city for it to rebuild itself. P. Aelius Aristides who was present during the earthquake in the year 178 had taken an important role in the restoration of the city and therefore had been given citizenship and his statue was erected in the Agora.
Religion in Smyrna
Like in any other Hellen city, Zeus was the most respected of all the Gods in Smyrna. Smyrnians who had built an Altar in the Agora of commerce and a temple most probably in Değirmentepe (?) for Zeus used expressions like Akraios (one that lives high above), Soter (saviour), and Olympios (from Olympus). We know that a medical school had been built in the city in the 3rd Century B.C. by a doctor called Hikesios. This shows that Asklepios, the master of medicine was also worshipped. In addition, some ancient authors write that there was an Asklepios temple (Asklepieion) right in the gymnasium on the shore of Smyrna.
The Apollon cult seems to have a long history in Smyrna, to the extent that, in the 4th Century B.C., many illustrations of this God are seen on the coins of the city. Also, this God bore different names for example Apollon Kissaloudenos, Apollon Aquieus, Apollon Perminoundeis and Apollon Kledones. These findings and some ancient writers lead us to believe that there was more than one Apollon temple. For example, altar stones found on the skirts of Pagos seem to direct towards an Apollon Kissaloudenos temple. And, again, according to Strabon, there was an Apollon temple between Smyrna and Klazomenai but we don’t know exactly where this was.
We know that the king of wine Dionysos was named Briseus in Smyrna. This cult was most likely brought to the city by the colonists who were of Aiol origin. The Dionysos temple would probably have been built outside the city if you take the legend seriously. The legend claims that lonian colonists conquered the city when the citizens were outside the city walls for the Dionysos Festival.
We know that the king of wine Dionysos was named Briseus in Smyrna. This cult was most likely brought to the city by the colonists who were of Aiol origin. The Dionysos temple would probably have been built outside the city if you take the legend seriously. The legend claims that lonian colonists conquered the city when the citizens were outside the city walls for the Dionysos Festival.
Above, we have mentioned that the Smyrnians highly respected Homeros and believed that he was born in Smyrna and built a monument which they called Homerion. According to Strabon, in this monument there was an altar and a statue of Homeros carved out of wood. The Smyrnians had also minted a bronze coin called Homereion. Silver and bronze coins bearing Homeros’s name and portrait have been found from the period from the 2nd century A.D. to the end of the 3rd century A.D. We don’t know where this monument stood but can suppose it to be some-where near Meles (Halkapınar?), who is another god worshipped by the Smyrnians.
It is without doubt that the most worshipped Goddess was the mother goddess. The mother Goddess’s temple (Metroon) has a history that goes back to the 3rd century B.C. Most probably Metroon, which is near Tepecik, has been described “as the most beautiful temple in Smyrna” by Aristides. Another significant Goddess for the Smyrnians was the Goddess Nemesis who asked Alexander the Great for the establishment of Smyrna on Pagos. In fact, there were two Nemesises in Smyrna believed to be the daughters of Night (Nyks). According to some inscriptions, during the Hadrianus period, there was a feast called Nemeseia in the name of these two goddesses. In the first century A.D., we see illustrations of these Nemeses found in a temple on Pagos (Nemesion) as well as on city coins.
On the other hand, the temple that was discovered during the excavations of Bayraklı, and which had been built in 7th century B.C.: The Spectacular Athenian Temple demonstrates the im portance of this Goddess to the Smyrnians. In fact, in a peace treaty signed by Smyrna and Magnesia (Manisa), we see both sides drinking in the name of Athena.
According to ancient writers and inscriptions, apart from the Gods and Goddesses that we have already mentioned, there were semi-gods that were worshipped in Smyrna as well like Ares, Hades, Eros, Dioskouroi, Herakles, Akhilleus, Egyptian Gods, Mithras, Demeter and Persephone, Selene, Nymphas and Mousas.